I have been in the Cotswolds for nearly
two weeks, helping a friend who is recovering from surgery. The
scenery is green and spectacular. I borrow some local dogs to keep
me company on my morning walk. The weather is a crapshoot. Some
bright and brilliant days and others grim and gloomy. Yesterday, we
are caught in a fierce downpour with wild wind as I help my friend,
who relies on crutches, navigate a busy street. Today the sky is
brilliant blue and we visit a lavender farm and an lovely, albeit
“new agey,” eccentric organic garden, cafe and gallery with
proceeds dedicated to the nation of Nepal and under the aegis of a
jocular Frenchman. Two European women interrogate the gift shop
manager about cleansing rituals and Nepalese singing bowls. The
groovy karma is compromised a bit as the aroma from the neighboring
pig farm wafts in the breeze.
While the countryside is picturesque,
after being marooned in Charlbury I realize I am not cut out for
small town life. I prefer the brisk anonymity and commercial options
of a big city. The only, and very crummy, market in town closes at
9. Although if you've got a yen for a“bun burger” that's been
under a heat lamp for a couple days, I can make a referral. The three
pubs all have one star ratings on Trip Advisor. The coffee house is
closed indefinitely. People seem to loiter in the street ceaselessly
talking to their neighbors. Clerks and customers chat away and
either no one in the queue has anything better to do or it's just
that dogged British politeness. At home, on the rare occasion when
you do bump into someone you know there is no expectation of
protracted conversation. I am, I suppose, too citified to endure the
obligatory cheerful friendliness that a small town requires. The
smallness induces, in fact, profound loneliness and hopelessness. I
long to return to the brusk unfriendly bustle of the city where
people talk to me because they want to and not out of small town
convention or propriety.
There are many footpaths along rivers
and rolling green hills surrounding the city but I find that even
being here for just two weeks I am unable to walk through town
without meeting some acquaintance. These are decent friendly people
but I'm awkward now and rusty at chitchat. I wander one morning into
the Charlbury Cemetery. It is very quiet indeed although probably
not a great idea given my own morass. The inscriptions have worn
away and moss and lichens cover rows of ancient tombstones. There is
not a lot of history of the town available on-line and the museum is
hardly ever open but I presume that some of the graves are from the
17th century, or perhaps earlier.
Newer sections of stones date from the
World War One and up to a freshly dug grave that is yet to bear a
headstone. Many of the graves are elaborately decorated. Some have
carefully cultivated, perfectly groomed flowers. Others are graced
with sentimental objects. Figurines. Garden gnomes. Football
memorabilia, Stuffed animals. Plaques with platitudes and
inspirational messages. A photo of a little terrier in a sweater. A
number of the more recent places of repose are overgrown with weeds
or bear withered bouquets. However, there are graves of those who
died before my own birth that remain manicured and fastidiously
attended to.
Many couples are buried side-by-side
with tombstones that note “reunited” or “together again.”
“Went to sleep” frequently replaces “date of death.” I
imagine there is comfort in tending these graves and believing that
death is mere sleep and that happy couples beam down from on high.
The sky is threatening, as it often is. I stand in the middle of
Charlbury's dead citizenry, sorrowful and jealous. I hate the
certainty with which I know that there is no heaven. My ashes will
likely be tossed somewhere that my children will think is meaningful
to me despite the meaninglessness of ashes. When the sun shines, the
widows and widowers and orphans of Charlbury come sit over the bones
of departed loved ones and plant new flowers. They believe in souls
and an idyllic hereafter. I believe that there is nothing. Nothing
but those who will choose to remember me.
Myself, in a sea of the Charlbury dead.
No one will tend a grave for me. I will not go to sleep or be
reunited with Himself in heaven to watch and protect from a little
cloud those loved ones who still walk the earth. It is this life and
this body and that is all there is. There is so little fucking time
and despite having tried, I do not believe that my soul is eternal.
Life's brevity is right up in my face as I stand above this rotting
flesh and bone. Knowing this I still can't help myself from wishing
days pass quickly. I long so to be with the ones who make this one,
and only, and infinitesimally short life count and matter.
1 comment:
"I hate the certainty with which I know that there is no heaven." Very powerful. I love you for our time together here on earth, Layne. Just don't play "Dust in the Wind" at my funeral. xxx me
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